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When to Use This Checklist
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The 6-Step Lighting Order Checklist
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Step 1: Know Your Ceiling Height and Mounting Height
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Step 2: Settle the Spotlight vs Flood Light Question Before You Count Lumens
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Step 3: Check the Driver, Dimming, and Control System
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Step 4: Search by Model Number, Not Nickname
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Step 5: Calculate Total Cost, Not Just Price per Unit
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Step 6: Confirm Stock and Lead Time Before You Enter a PO
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Step 1: Know Your Ceiling Height and Mounting Height
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What Most People Skip
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A Quick Note on Timing
If you're reading this because a lighting spec changed at the last minute, I get it. I've spent the last seven years coordinating urgent lighting orders for warehouses, offices, and retail clients. The exact reasons change—a re-layout, a tenant move-in, a failed fixture—but the process that works is always the same.
This is the checklist I use when I have to order Signify high bay fixtures, Philips downlights (sometimes written as 'philip downlight' or 'oprawa downlight' on translated POs), or when I need to settle the spotlight vs flood light question without going back and forth with the client for three days.
It's not a complete lighting design course. It's a sequence of checks that keeps a rush order from turning into a return order.
When to Use This Checklist
Use this when you're choosing fixtures for a specific space and you need to be right the first time. It's for:
- High bay replacements in industrial or warehouse spaces
- Commercial downlight orders
- Any project where someone says 'spotlight or flood light?'
- Orders with a deadline that doesn't allow a do-over
If you're doing a full lighting design, you'll need photometric calculations and a proper specification. For a faster, operational decision, these six steps get you there.
The 6-Step Lighting Order Checklist
Step 1: Know Your Ceiling Height and Mounting Height
This is first because it eliminates options immediately. A Signify high bay fixture is designed for ceilings roughly 20 feet and higher. Some of their low bay and high bay fixtures share similar bodies, but the optics and drivers can be different. If the ceiling is 15 feet, a true high bay may create glare and uneven light. If the ceiling is 30 feet, a downlight won't even get close to the floor.
Measure the mounting height, not just the room height. If you're replacing fixtures on a 14-foot grid in a retail space, you're likely looking at downlights or low bay, not high bay. If you're ordering Signify high bay, confirm the actual mounting height before you pick a wattage or beam option.
Step 2: Settle the Spotlight vs Flood Light Question Before You Count Lumens
This is the most common mistake I see, and the fix is simple: spotlight and flood light are beam patterns, not brightness settings.
- Spotlight: narrow beam, usually 10°–30°. Good for accent lighting, displays, and targets.
- Flood light: wide beam, usually 60°–120°. Good for area lighting and general illumination.
People often order flood lights because they think 'more coverage' means 'more light.' But if you're lighting a sign, a façade, or a display wall, a flood light will wash out the visual and waste energy. A spotlight with a tighter beam will hit the target with less power. According to Signify Lighting Academy's basic photometry materials, beam angle is one of the first specs you should look at after wattage—and maybe before it.
Rule of thumb I've used on dozens of jobs: if you're lighting a 'thing,' use a spotlight. If you're lighting a 'place,' use a flood light.
A few years ago, a retail client asked me to replace 'flood lights' on an accent wall. The lumen numbers suggested a flood light. My gut said the beam would be too wide. We ordered spotlights and the client said it was the first time the wall actually looked lit. The data wasn't wrong—it was just incomplete.
For Signify high bay fixtures, the same thinking applies. High bays often come in narrow, medium, or wide beam distributions. Pick the beam based on aisle width and mounting height, not just wattage.
Step 3: Check the Driver, Dimming, and Control System
I almost skipped this once in a rush and it cost us. The fixture was right, but the control system was wrong. If you're replacing a downlight in a commercial space, find out whether the room uses 0-10V dimming, DALI, or no dimming at all. Signify fixtures typically specify compatible drivers, but you still need to match the control signal.
This is especially important for emergency lighting circuits. If a fixture is on an emergency test switch or a tamper-proof circuit, the driver and battery pack need to be specified as part of the order. It's not a standard 'grab one off the shelf' decision.
Step 4: Search by Model Number, Not Nickname
The fastest way to order the wrong fixture is to type 'philip downlight' into a search bar and hit enter. I'm not being dramatic.
Philips-branded downlights and Signify professional fixtures often have long model numbers with suffixes that matter. A 'PS' or 'BL' or 'S' at the end can mean a different reflector, color temperature, or driver. If you're working from a translated spec sheet and it says 'oprawa downlight'—that's Polish for 'downlight fixture'—focus on the model number behind the translation.
And yes, it's spelled 'Philips' with two l's. But searching for the full model number is better than searching for the brand name in any language.
Step 5: Calculate Total Cost, Not Just Price per Unit
I have mixed feelings about emergency markups. On one hand, they feel like a punishment. On the other, I've seen the logistics chaos that comes from a genuine rush order, so I understand why they exist. What I don't understand is choosing a fixture based on the cheapest price tag when the total cost is obviously higher.
The cheapest order wins only if these are all equal:
- Energy efficiency over the fixture's lifetime
- Installation labor (the right fixture can be installed in half the time)
- Maintenance access and replacement frequency
- Shipping and potential rush fees
- Cost of a wrong delivery date
I've seen a $200 savings on cheap high bay fixtures produce a $1,500 problem when the fixtures showed up with the wrong driver and the project had to be rescheduled. In March 2024, a client of mine needed 12 high bays for a warehouse audit with 36 hours' notice. The normal quote was 14 days lead time. We paid a $300 rush charge to get what was in stock, and used temporary work lights for one area that didn't have inventory. It cost a little more than the budget option. It also kept a $12,000 phase on schedule.
That's not an argument for always paying extra. It's an argument for looking at the complete cost before you decide.
Step 6: Confirm Stock and Lead Time Before You Enter a PO
A Signify high bay with a great price but a three-week lead time is useless when the deadline is Friday. Ask for a written ship date. Ask if the quantity you need is in stock at the distributor. Ask about partial shipments—sometimes 90% of the order can ship immediately, and the rest can follow.
If you're in a true emergency, this step can also tell you which fixture family to choose. If the exact fixture isn't available, a different beam angle or a slightly different wattage might be in stock. It's better to know that before you've spent an hour creating a PO.
What Most People Skip
The most common thing clients skip is maintenance access. They choose a fixture that's perfect on paper, but the installer can't reach it without a boom lift, or the ceiling tile can't support it. I've made that mistake too. Check the physical dimensions and mounting method before you approve the order.
Another thing I'd add: if you're not sure whether a product family is still current, use a source like Signify Lighting Academy. It's Signify's education platform and it covers beam angle, photometry, controls, and application basics. As of early 2025, it's publicly accessible and faster than digging through old catalogs. It's not a substitute for the product datasheet, but it's a good place to verify terminology before you ask for a quote.
A Quick Note on Timing
This information was accurate as of Q1 2025. Lighting product lines and SKUs change frequently, and distributor stock changes daily. Verify current prices, lead times, and compatibility before you budget or order.
If you've never fully understood why some lighting orders go smoothly and others don't, my best guess is that it comes down to how carefully someone defined the beam pattern and the control system. Get those two right, and almost everything else becomes easier.